DRIVERS
Which head?
Hi Frank. I just traded my Callaway 460x for a Callaway FTi and am now getting 19 yards more out of the new driver. Is this just in my head???? Chuck
Chuck,
I have no reason to doubt that the distance increase you are getting is real. But I do ask if you also increased your driving distance when you changed from your previous driver to the Callaway 460X?
If you did, then I would take advantage of and have fun with the 19 extra yards while this lasts.
The only reason this will last beyond the “Placebo Effect Time (PET time)”, which is about a month or two depending on how much you paid for the new driver, is that you were not getting the launch angle and spin rates you needed to optimize your launch conditions with your 460 X. If so, it was not the right club fit for you.
Both drivers have the same COR and approximately the same head weight, so if you hit them both on the sweet spot with the same head speed, then the ball speed will be the same.
If the ball speed is the same then the only way you are going to get 19 more yards is if you launch the ball closer to optimum conditions for you and your head speed than you did before. Or you may now be playing off hard turf and getting about 19 yards more roll.
The answer is in your head, but I don’t know which one.
Choosing a Shaft
Frank:
We’ve heard so much about shafts. What is the best way to know that you’re choosing the correct shaft for your woods and irons?
JohnJohn,
In the last ten years or so, shaft marketing has gone into overdrive. If you read the ads or the articles in most golf magazines, you’ll get the impression that getting the right kickpoint and torque properties for your individual game is as important as getting the right prescription in your contact lenses. In fact, unless you’re a very low handicap golfer, choosing the right shaft is very simple.The one and only important decision for you to make, unless you’re abnormally tall or short and standard lengths won’t work for you, is in your choice of shaft flex. You should look first for one that you feel comfortable swinging, and in general you should begin with the more flexible shafts and move towards the stiffer ones only if you find the flexible ones too whippy. (Most golfers use shafts that are too stiff for their swing speeds.) Finding a comfortable shaft will help you build confidence, which makes all the difference in your performance.
Chasing distance and moving outside your comfort zone to get it is a move in the wrong direction.
Generally your choice is largely dependent on your swing speed and your skill level. If you have a high swing speed (100 + mph with your driver), then you are a candidate for a stiff shaft or even an XS. Most of us who swing in the 90 mph zone don’t need more than a R-flex in our woods, and this is probably the case for our irons as well. You can even use a stiff shaft in your irons and R-flex in your woods if this is what feels most comfortable to you. If you do this, I’d recommend using the same flex shaft in your hybrids that you’re using in your woods. (Today many manufacturers are installing specifically designed hybrid shafts in these clubs, but they still come in the usual array of flexes.)
I would certainly not try to be too exotic with the choice of your shaft -- e.g. low or high kick-point, specific balance point or some extreme in torque properties -- until you have reduced your handicap to close to scratch. At this point you can think about some of the fancy stuff if you need a specific flight pattern that neither a loft change nor overall shaft flex change is helping you achieve. But when you are at that point, you’ll have developed sufficient feel that you’ll be able to tell if the shaft is right for you or not. For more on shafts visit http://www.franklygolf.com/tgc/shafts.asp
Hope this helps.
Frank
Shaft Flex and Trajectory
Hi Frank,
I like your website and articles in Golf Digest. I am an 8 handicap. I use a Cleveland Launcher 400 with the Fujikura stock shaft (stiff). I hit it between 230 - 250 carry. My ball flight is a mid/high trajectory. I am thinking about buying the original Cleveland Hi Bore with a Grafalloy Pro Launch 65-stiff (I also have a choice of UST Proforce V2, Aldila NV65, and Fujikura Hi Bore Silver stock shaft). What is the difference if I got the 9.5 or the 10.5? I live in Houston, Texas, so the wind is a factor quite a bit; I play a lot in Hawaii too, where the wind can be very gusty. Would one degree affect my performance? I’m looking for a higher ball flight, but would like distance and accuracy. Is there a chance I need a regular flex? I am not sure you have enough information, but I look forward to your diagnosis.
Sincerely,Nelson
Nelson,
You are right, I don't have enough information to answer your main question, i.e., 'Do I need a 9.5 or 10.5 loft when looking for a higher trajectory, more distance and greater accuracy?'What you need to do is determine what your existing launch conditions are, and then select the loft to increase the launch angle if you feel the flight is too low. A softer shaft will also increase the launch angle a little, but don't change from a shaft flex that feels comfortable just to change the trajectory. Your existing shaft flex seems to be fine, considering the carry distance you’re getting now. Your launch angle (for your swing speed, which I assume is close to 100 mph) should be about 12 degrees with a spin rate of about 2,500 rpm. For more carry distance you can increase the launch angle by about 1 degree and decrease the spin a little. For more roll or windy conditions, decrease the launch angle.
I don't know how much more I can help you without watching your swing and measuring your launch conditions using various club heads and shaft configurations.
I would say in general that you are pretty good where you are with your existing equipment, so don't mess with what you've got.
Frank
Results of A Band-Aid Driver
Hello Frank:
Like many other golfers, I've struggled with a slice off the tee, so I bought an offset driver. Initially, this worked well to improve my drives. However, I also took a series of lessons and worked on my swing throughout last season. By the end of last season, I had to aim well right of center, as nearly every shot from the tee was left (and occasionally look-out left). Given that the distance and ball flight off the tee were generally good, and after talking to one of the local PGA pros, I think my swing has improved to the point where I can change back to a non-offset driver.
One item that has caught my attention about the new drivers during my research is the face angle set-up. Most of the current drivers generally have faces that are 1 to 2 degrees closed, which I assume helps to square the face at impact (and maybe impart a slight draw bias). The Tour versions of the same drivers, which are advertised to provide enhanced workability and ball flight control, have face angles that range from 0.5 to 3 degrees open. Why is a set-up that seems more likely to impart a fade bias considered to have greater workability? Do the manufacturers assume/know that people playing those clubs will have a higher swing speed and need the club to start slightly open to end up square at impact? Or is a slight fade considered to be a more desirable ball flight by better players?
Regards,
Steve
Steve,
You are a wonderful example of what I’ve been warning against for years now. Manufacturers have been producing clubs for the higher handicap player with the face angles so closed that when they correct their swing it is "watch out and FORE left".This is a shame but I think the reason is that many golfers are not prepared to take a lesson and work on their game and therefore try to correct their problems with a band-aid club. The band-aid approach locks you into a bad move and doesn't give you any incentive to improve, because if you do you’ll need to buy another driver. This is costly, as you are experiencing.
One of the reasons some of the better players use a square to slightly open face is that they are inclined to draw the ball, and the slightly open face at address sets them up properly. If you want to work the ball, you really don't need any particular bias (draw or fade) built into your club.
Congratulations on getting the swing corrected; I know you are going to have a lot more fun and your scores will definitely improve. Yes, you should get a new driver with a square face. The offset will be inclined to increase the launch angle as well as close the face, but you don't need any more face closing help.Enjoy your new swing and congratulate your teacher from me. Well done. If you are looking to buy some more equipment be sure to read my 8 Simple Rules for Buying Equipment by clicking here
Frank
Loft and Distance
Hello, Frank, from frozen New Jersey.
Frank, I am 66 years of age, and I hit my 10.5-degree Big Bertha driver around 195 yards. My swing speed is 86 miles an hour. I am looking at a Cobra F speed driver, 12 degrees with a R- flex, shaft mid kick point 55 grams.
Based on the above what loft do you feel would give me the greatest distance? I hope to get a little more distance, and upgrade to a 460. Is there a chart I can buy that would tell me the distance I can expect from a particular swing speed and loft?
Thanks so much for helping us senior guys.--Tom
Tom,
Don't worry, it will warm up in New Jersey and you will be able to play golf again.Your Big Bertha (only 190 cc) was and still is a wonderful club when compared to the persimmon drivers it made extinct. Now, however, it is time to upgrade to a larger head (400 to 460 cc) with a high COR. Callaway has a good selection, as do other manufacturers such as Cobra, and you might want to consider buying last year’s model. Physics doesn’t change from year to year; last year’s clubs were good when they were introduced and they’re good today. Significant changes in performance are very hard to come by, and advances in technology over the last several years have made very little real difference. The advantage of last year’s model is that it will cost about half the price of the new models and work just as well as the newest and biggest in most cases.
At your swing speed, you should look for a loft of between 11 and 12 degrees; you want to launch the ball at 13 to 14 degrees with a spin rate of about 3000-3,500 rpm to get maximum distance under normal turf conditions, producing about 25 yards of roll. If, however, you intend to play before the ground has thawed, then you might want launch the ball a little lower. Only kidding!!
Have some patience; the season will change and life will be good again for golfers in New Jersey. In the meantime check out my guideline for launch conditions on my website by clicking here.
Frank
Square Drivers
Nike and Callaway are introducing new square headed drivers for 2007. They claim the square head shape has allowed them to increase the MOI and thus produce a straighter hitting driver. I understand the MOI theory, but does a square head really make a difference or is this just more marketing hype? --Richard
Richard,
Let me say the following. When the MOI increased from 2,000 gm cm² to 4,000 gm cm² there was a significant improvement in performance on miss-hits. But from 4,000 gm cm² to 6,000 gm cm² there is very little. Most of the bigger 400cc to 460 cc drivers have about 3,500 gm cm² to 4,000 gm cm² MOI and perform very well.The latest square drivers have improved the MOI to 5,300 gm cm² but the improvement in performance doesn’t come close to the improvement we have seen from 2,000 to 4,000 gm cm². A good case of diminishing returns.
The other reason why the manufacturers are doing this is to be different and also to approach the MOI limit placed by the USGA. Any time there is a limit golfers assume that being just under it is good. Thus the reason for the 460cc drivers (limit is 470cc) and now the high MOI. I very much doubt that you will be able to see any real measurable difference in performance because of the increase to 5,300 gm cm² unless you really miss the sweet-spot.
There is not much more room for movement in performance in drivers so pushing the envelope re. the limits seems to be a good way to impress golfers. I believe that in time we will see a return to 400 cc drivers and traditional shapes.
Frankly, for the moment, being square is cool.
For more on square drivers check out my latest newsletter by clicking here
Mr. Thomas,
Adding weight to the Toe or Heel of a Driver or Fairway Club will affect the flight.
Which will it do for a Draw or Fade? Thanks for your time. I like your short part on Monday’s The Golf Channel.Steve Malley
Steve,
To create a draw bias in these clubs move the weight to the heel and for a fade bias move it toward the toe.There are two reasons for the flight changing when you rearrange the weight distribution in wood clubs (these clubs are distinguished from irons by shape, not material). The reasons for differences in performance are first, the center of gravity (c.g.) changes its position and thus if the impact point is the same the spin applied to the ball is going to be different due to the gear effect. Normally a toed shot gives a little draw spin because the c.g. is toward the heel and back from the impact point. So if you add weight to the heel of the club the c.g. moves toward the heel and if impact is in the center of the club it will appear to be a “toed” shot relative to the new c.g. location and will thus apply a little draw spin to the ball. This assumed that you hit the ball on the same spot each time.
The second reason for the club, with moved weight to the heel, applying a slight draw to the ball is because the MOI (Moment of Inertia) of the head, about the shaft, is a little less as the c.g. is moved to the heel and as a result rotating the head into the impact position is a little easier and in fact may tend to allow the face to close a little.
Please understand that weight manipulation is a tweaking of ball flight and not a cure for a bad slice or hook. The first thing to do for a slice or hook is to try to alter your swing. Generally a good teacher can correct this type of swing flaw. Then you can tweak the flight by changing the c.g. location.Frank
I have noticed recently that club makers are adding adjustable weighting to virtually every type of club made. How much help is this to the 10-20 handicapper?
My thinking is that, until I have the necessary expertise in my shot making capability, this could really cause more problems than fix.Bob, KY
Bob,
You are quite right. The most important thing to do is make sure that your game is in good shape and you are striking the ball consistently. If you have a swing flaw which for example, is causing a bad slice, try to get a teacher to help first and don’t look for help by moving weights in your club head.The concept of being able to move weights is good and a lot better and neater than adding lead tape all over the head. You will also have the ability to change the overall weight to achieve a specific swing weight if you need to after you have changed the length of your club for instance.
The wood clubs and hybrids are good candidates for weight ports and if you find that you want to change the ball flight just a little, then it is good to have ability to do this available to you.
Moving the center of gravity in the head is something which club designers have been working on for some time as it will affect the way the club head is presented to the ball and depending on the impact location on the face will also affect the ball flight. Now that this can be done without destroying the head or having to get a new head is wonderful. The problem is that there are only few of us who can really take advantage of this. Our ability to hit the ball consistently needs to be worked on first so we will know what to change and how. I suggest that moving weights should be used to tweak performance rather than changing it significantly.
This concept is like having a compass in your SUV: its good to have it when and if you ever need it.
WOODEN
All these years, I've believed "there is no magic," continuing to play my persimmon (Cleveland) driver. Now, there is magic! How much distance am I losing with persimmon and its resin face? -- Anon
Anon -- if you hit the ball right in the center of the face then you are not losing too much distance. However, the metal woods of today are easier to hit -- they are more forgiving and generally get the ball in the air a little better. This, with the confidence you gain using them, should allow you to hit the ball longer and straighter.
SPRING LIKE EFFECT
Weak COR
Dear Frank: Do the current drivers (large head - thin face) get "weak" after use? That is, does the COR decrease over time with a consequent loss of distance?
Sincerely
--StewStew,
Yes the COR will eventually decrease as you continually hit the center of the face. The time it takes depends on the speed at which you impact the ball and how often. The club faces are very thin and it will take about 5,000 to 10,00o impacts on the sweet spot at 115 to 120 mph head speed for the face to start deteriorating. This number depends on the manufacturing process and control of the face thickness and how it is welded to the body of the head.
This should not be of too much concern to most of us because we do not swing fast enough and don’t hit the sweet spot very often. By the time we get to the critical number we will probably need a new driver anyway.
The best way to check if the face is starting to deteriorate is to place a credit card edge on to the face and check to see that it is rocking on the face because of the “roll” and “bulge” built into the new club face.
If the card does not rock and you are unable to see light under the edge, the face has flattened and you should think about getting a new driver.
Will the R&A govern the Ryder Cup at the Belfry this September, or will the USGA be the rules-making body? Will the U.S. team get strokes from the Euros because the Euros' clubs will have a distance advantage? Rich Loughram, Scottsdale
Ultimately it's a decision made by the two organizations that govern the Ryder Cup: the PGAs of America and Britain. As it's being played in the U.K. this year, the PGAs agree that it makes sense for the R&A rules to apply, meaning that players on both sides will be at liberty to use the Callaway ERC II and other similarly nonconforming drivers.
Much of the terminology for drivers (thin titanium walls, larger sweet spot, better trampoline effect) sounds similar to that used for a baseball bat. Does a driver Become "dead"-the performance decreasing over time-like a baseball bat? Timothy Wiley, Austin, TX
When you hit a golf ball, the clubface bends or deforms at impact. The clubhead will change in performance only if that bending at impact goes beyond the yield point of the metal, so that the face doesn't fully recover to its normal resting position. It's like the difference between a fishing rod and a copper pipe. The fishing rod recovers; the copper pipe stays bent. Unless you have a colossally fast swing, the performance of your driver should stay the same over time. As for shafts, a lot of people think that steel shafts get softer and more flexible over time. If anything, the opposite is true-but even this stiffening doesn't happen to a measurable extent.
A lot has been said about the titanium driver -- that it adds to distance over the traditional steelhead. I currently own the Big Bertha Warbird and was thinking about switching to a titanium driver. I am hesitant in spending over $300 for one. Will it dramatically add to my driving distance or should I stick with my current driver? -- Hchu
If you are a scratch golfer you will gain about 5 to 10 yards on average using the new large, thin-faced titanium drivers, depending on which club you buy. If your handicap is 10 or above, an occasional drive may be longer than usual but on average you will not gain more than a couple of yards -- most of us don't make contact with the sweet spot frequently enough for it to make a difference. You will, however, benefit from the club being a little more forgiving because of the larger size. If you are comfortable with your present driver, stick with it. You and I will gain more by improving our ability to focus on every drive. Good luck and don't listen to those naughty voices in your head at the top of your backswing.
Please explain the technical differences between the Callaway ERC II driver's alledged "spring-like effect" versus the "springiness" of various shaft materials and flexes. Why should one incite such angst among rules makers and the other none after so many years? I'm a traditional persimmon player, happy to have beautiful new clubs from Louisville Golf. Just curious. -- Ridg Gilmer, Houston
The ERC II has a face, which deforms during the compressive phase of impact and recovers during the recovery phase (impact lasts for approximately .0005 seconds). The face thus acts like a trampoline. This enhances the post-impact rebound velocity of the ball compared to the rebound off a persimmon headed club. The shaft, on the other hand, flexes backward (due to the slowing of the head during impact) and then recovers, but the recovery starts to take place long after the ball has left the clubface. There is no shaft that will help propel the ball faster, unless one can generate more clubhead speed by using it. In fact, after the start of impact, the shaft may as well be separated from the head because it plays no part in the trajectory of the ball from that point onward. Everything and anything that the shaft does for you happens before the start of impact. Spring-like effect is a real phenomenon and has increased the average driving distance on the PGA Tour by 10 yards or more in just three years. Nothing has had so great an effect in such a short period of time.
Why should the "spring-like effect" work at all? Isn't the ball long gone by the time the face recovers? Shouldn't a harder (non-deforming) face be more efficient in transferring energy to the ball?
The springlike effect works because the thin face of the titanium driver recovers at a very fast rate. You are correct in your assumption that impact is short in duration (approximately 0.0005 of a second), but that's not long enough. Spring like effect is best thought of as a trampoline effect-like the difference between jumping into a swimming pool off a springboard compared to a concrete platform.
LOFT
Spin Control
Frank,
I am a 20-handicapper. I use a 10.5 driver, and the lowest spin rate I have ever been able to achieve is 4,000. Should I use a more lofted driver?
--Lou
Lou,
I don’t know what your swing speed is, but if it’s 80 to 90 mph then your launch angle should be 13 to 14 degrees and spin rate should be about 3,500 rpm. If your launch angle is higher than this, get a driver with a lower loft; if not, then stay with what you have. Four thousand rpm is not bad. The other thing you can try is to hit the ball a little higher on the face to decrease the spin, but this will increase the launch angle.
Hope this helps
Frank
Frank;
I've tried a couple of drivers of the last couple of years, a 10 degree and a 10.5 degree. I can't seem to find the fairway as much as with my 13 degree 3 wood that I hit nearly as far as the driver, I'm an 11 handicap, and I'm wondering if I would get more distance with a 13 degree 460cc driver, or should I just stick with the 3 wood?
Jeff, WI
Jeff,
The fact that you are hitting more fairways with your 13 degree three wood and getting almost as much distance as with your 10.5 degree driver is because first a shorter club is always easier to control and secondly you are getting the ball into the air more efficiently using your 13 degree fairway wood. I absolutely believe that you will get more distance with a 400 cc to 460 cc driver if you can order one with a 13 degree loft (many manufacturers offer a 13 degree driver but many are 45 inches long). This should not be longer than 44 inches in length because the shorter the club the better you are able to control the direction. If it is 45 inches long then choke down a little. Your three wood is most likely no longer than 43 inches so your driver being one inch longer is about the right difference. The other reason for going to a 400 to 460 cc head is the forgiveness is greater and the size allows for a more efficient spring like effect design than your three-wood.Jeff, go for the bigger driver with 13 degrees loft and 44 inches long. You will love it and once you start hitting more fairways then you confidence will take over and with the improved swing you will get the distance the a longer shaft gives but with the accuracy you are looking for.
I’m an amateur golfer and my current driver is a 9.5-degree loft Taylor Made with a stiff 70-gram shaft. My average drive is about 245 yards with a very low trajectory. Should I go up in loft and switch to regular flex shaft, or one or the other? Your advice would be greatly appreciated.
There are two things I would suggest. The shaft flex is somewhat dependent on your swing speed so if this is about 90 mph, which is a little above average, I would first try an R-shaft and then if this doesn’t get the ball up enough then go to a higher loft (approx. 10.5) both will increase the launch angle and if the trajectory is, as you suggest, too low then this will increase the launch angle and most likely increase the distance you are getting. For your information the average golfer (16- 17 handicap for men) drives the ball about 192 yards, so you are in good shape with the 245 you are now getting. Make sure when trying to get that extra distance you don’t lose accuracy. A shorter shaft may help you control your drives and build that all important confidence factor. I hope this helps.
Mr. Thomas;
I have heard that the stated loft on a driver will play 1 1/2 degrees weaker. Is this true and would you please elaborate?
Thank you,
John
John,
In general, how a club will play depends on the golfer and his/her swing; your angle of approach to the ball can influence the effective loft. But I suspect you’re asking about something more specific.
It is true that, five or more years ago, the lofts on some drivers were at least 1 degree more than what was stamped on the sole. This was done only on the higher lofted drivers, e.g. 11 degrees or so. The reason was that even though a large number of golfers would benefit from a 12-degree lofted driver, they wouldn’t buy one, believing that “real golfers don’t use 12-degree lofted drivers.” To help these golfers get past their ego problem and improve their performance, some manufacturers put a little white lie on their clubs, building in 12 degrees of loft but stamping them with 11. I am pleased to say that this is rarely the case today, because we’ve gotten smarter as golfers and have come to accept that loft is one of our best friends. We have at last recognized that lofts on driving clubs can be as much as 15 degrees to approach optimum launch condition for slower swing speeds. As a result, manufacturers don’t have to be as naughty when stamping the lofts on the sole of clubs.
I am 14 years old, 5'8" tall, around 105 lbs. and hit the ball around 250 yards on average with my driver. I don't know my swing speed. I am currently using a 13-degree driver and would like to get a driver with less loft, maybe around 9 degrees. What should be the lowest degree of loft I go with? -- Taylor vanderHelm, Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
In a few years you are going to put on a few pounds and even grow several more inches. These changes will allow you to hit the ball even better than you do today. The way you now hit the ball I don't know why you want to change the loft on your driver, but I do not recommend you change it by more than two degrees at a time if you do change. If you are tweaking your equipment and trying to modify the flight path by changing the loft by a couple of degrees, then make sure you stay with the same make and model of driver. Each manufacturer has a slightly different way they design the weight distribution in the head and this will affect the club head presentation. As a result, a 9-degree lofted driver from one manufacturer may perform the same way as an 8-degree from another and even an 11-degree from a third. Try to find out where and when the manufacturer's next demo day is going to be and go and try a few. Check out different shaft flexes. You may have to stiffen up on your shaft as you get taller and put on those pounds.
All other factors being equal, does less loft on a driver mean more distance? For example, with a solid swing and clubface square at impact, would a 9-degree driver send the ball farther than a 10-degree driver? -- Erin Furey, Cleveland
Erin, this depends on your swing speed and the angle at which the clubhead approaches the ball. With a lower swing speed it is generally better to get the ball launched higher, so use more loft to get more distance. For high swing speeds, the optimal launch angle for maximum distance is 12 to 13 degrees (most pros hit their 7- or 9-degree drivers slightly on the upswing).
I am 69 years old and have used Callaway clubs for years. I recently bought VFT Hawk Eye woods with RCH PRO 65 shafts. The driver, 3-wood, 5-wood, 7-wood are all 1-inch above average length with a regular flex shaft. I just love my 3,5 and 7 but my 9-degree driver just won't do anything for me. I hit the 3-wood (15.5 degrees) about 200 yards (same as my driver), my 5-wood about 185 yards and my 7-wood about 170 yards. Since I have a tendency to hit the ball high I went with 9-degree driver. My fairway woods all perform much longer and straighter than anything I have ever used but the driver is blah. I can't even get a titanium 'ping' out of it. Is there any difference in a driver and fairway woods given the same loft? -- GP9TEE@cs.com
Do me a favor and if you are not exercising, please get into a program as soon as your doctor will allow. Strength and stretching for flexibility will help you at 69 much more than you can imagine and you may even drive the ball 20 yards farther. Now to address your question; it sounds very much like you have the wrong loft on you driver. As soon as you can try an 11-degree VFT. I am sure that the ball will be launched at a more efficient angle and give you the distance you are expecting. A lot of people who don't hit the ball the distance they expect with their driver have found that their 3-wood works very well off the tee. Good luck.
My 80-year-old father doesn't get the distance or consistency he'd like off the tee. He hits his 3 wood about as far as his driver. His swing speed is around 70 m.p.h. I think he needs 12 degrees of loft or more, with a mid-kick shaft. Suggestions? John Shankland, Schaumburg, IL
Good luck to your dad-I hope he continues to play for another 20 years. First, if he is not exercising (even walking on a daily basis) or stretching to become more flexible, he should talk to his doctor and get started as soon as possible. A regular exercise regimen will improve his distance more than any piece of equipment. Second, yes, a loft of 12 degrees or even a little more on his driver will result in a higher ball trajectory, which is more efficient for slower swing speeds. Just make sure that the shaft feels comfortable.
SHAFT
Fighting A Distance Loss
I am 59 years old and play to a 1.5 average index. However, I am finding it increasingly difficult to maintain my distance, especially with the driver. I play a TM 580 9.5 regular graphite shaft and can only carry the ball about 205- 210 yards. With normal roll I get an average distance of around 220-225 yards. I also have a Titleist 905R 10.5 regular graphite with which I have been repeatedly measured at 220 carry, but the ball comes down dead and I get almost no roll. My accuracy is excellent and I miss very few fairways. I often have to play courses that approach 6900-7000 yards in competition. While my short game is normally very good, the pressure of being 20-40 yards behind my opponents forces me to play in a very non-aggressive manner.
Would you advise trying a longer shaft? Is there anything else that might help me get that 20-30 yards I have lost in the last 5 years? Playing shorter courses is not really an option, as I play in numerous State tournaments. I really enjoy your commentaries and column on the Golf Channel. You seem to call it straight, and that’s why I’m asking.
Regards
--MikeMike,
Don't give up -- we may have a solution. It’s not an equipment solution, because I don't think this is an equipment problem. At your swing speed, in the low 80s, about the best you can expect is your carry of 210 yards and a total of 230 with roll.The best thing you can do is to improve your range of motion. This will give you about 15 to 20 yards more than you have now, assuming you haven’t already been working on your strength and flexibility. Experiments have shown a significant improvement in club head speed when the range of motion improves. Your only other real option may be to work with a teaching pro to change your technique – though with a handicap of 1.5 you probably shouldn’t look to change too much.
The average male drives the ball 192 yards with a head speed of about 80 mph. so you’re actually hitting the ball well for your speed. If you want more distance, you must get the head speed up a little. Get permission from your doctor first, then go ahead with an exercise and stretching routine, and you just might find most of those extra yards you’ve lost. Hope this helps.
FrankHow Long Is Too Long?
Hi Frank:
Would you mind addressing the 48" golf shaft compared to the 43-44" shaft? I currently use a 50" shaft, and I think that the new maximum length is 48". I read an article in one of the golf magazines that indicated that the 48" shafts actually hit the ball farther and had better dispersion. I know that I'm 20-30 yards longer with my shaft than any standard-length shafts that I’ve tried on the driving range.
CharlieCharlie,
I don't know how far you hit your drives now, but I’m sure that when you really time your 50 inch shafted driver correctly, hit the sweet spot, and have the face pointing in the right direction, you get that 20 yards you’re talking about. My guess, however, is that this is probably not a very common occurrence. If there wasn’t such a sizable tradeoff between distance and accuracy in the longer shafts, then every driver sold today would be 48" (which is the maximum length allowed under the current Rules of Golf).
I believe that a 44 inch shaft is close to optimum for distance and accuracy. Tiger Woods used a 43 ½ inch driver for a long time, and the average on the PGA Tour is a little over 44 ½ inches long. Some golfers who have very slow swings and excellent timing may benefit from using a longer shaft, but most of us have to choose between bragging rights from the occasional long drive and having to buy the beer after each round.
Greater consistency with a shorter driver will build more confidence and in turn lead to a better swing and generally longer and straighter drives.
Too long is not good for drivers.
--Frank
Hi, Frank – I enjoy your column and never miss it!
I play to a seven handicap and I’ve dabbled in golf clubmaking for fun and enjoyment. I’ve assembled many clubs, from wedges to drivers, and understand the basics about shaft flex, torque, and flex point.I have had my swing speed measured numerous times with numerous different devices, and I consistently register between 103 and 107 mph with a “normal” driver swing. As a result, for as long as I can remember, I assembled all of my clubs to “stiff” shaft specifications.
Recently, I went to my local golf store and tested the Nike SQ driver. I took two 10.5-degree drivers to my local driving range -- one with a regular shaft and one with a stiff shaft. Both were the stock Diamana shaft. At the driving range, I “disguised” the two clubs and tried to test them to see which one I hit better, without knowing which club was which. To my surprise, while both clubs launched the ball higher than I’m used to, the regular-shafted club felt a little better and I tended to hit it straighter. In addition, judging from what I could see, the three longest drives also came from the club with the R flex.
Now to my question: Have I been playing the wrong shaft flex all these years? Is it possible the specifications that shaft manufacturers publish do not apply to my swing? I am considering spending $50 to go to a “shaft lab” at my local golf shop to get fitted – is that money well spent?
Sincerely
Jim
Jim,
I think you have already done the lab thing for yourself, so you don’t need to spend the $50.If you’re getting better distance with more control -- and most of all, it feels better than the stiff flex shaft -- then the R-flex is for you. At your skill level you are the real judge, so don’t worry about what the guidelines are.
You are right, however, about flex standards: There aren’t any. There are general flex guidelines as defined by each manufacturer, and these are fairly close but are not necessarily the same. So one company’s Stiff may be another’s Regular.
Shafts with lower flex points will feel different to those with higher flex points, even though they’re considered the same flex and they bend the same amount when measured at the end where the weight is positioned. This is an element of advanced club-fitting, but most of us should first try the standard shafts offered, changing only the shaft flex. As a guideline (and only that), the faster you load the shaft the stiffer it should be. An established manufacturer would not install the standard shaft if it wasn’t going to make the club perform well for most of us as long as we are using the correct general flex.
A more detailed fitting process can be good, but will only confirm what you feel. Don’t chase distance if it means forgoing comfort and feel. If the club feels good you will develop confidence and in most cases make a better swing. This will lead to better performance and then all will be well – at least until you start listening to those little voices that try to tell you what to avoid doing while addressing the ball or on our backswing.
Go with what you feel, not what someone tells you what you feel.
Frank,
I recently changed the shaft in my driver. I paid the extra $10 to have the shaft "pured." Theoretically, it makes sense, but practically I don't notice that much difference in performance.As the inventor of the graphite shaft, you’re surely the best person to give me some insight on this process.
BradBrad,
I’m no “purist.” To my mind, a shaft that needs to be “pured” is a bad shaft to begin with.The problem lies in the manufacturing process. The first graphite shafts were filament-wound, which means that a continuous bundle of resin-impregnated graphite fibers were wound onto a rotating solid core or mandrel, creating a woven pattern of material resulting in a constant thickness of material on the mandrel. This becomes the “wall thickness” of the shaft when the mandrel is removed after curing. The flex properties are thus very consistent in all directions, independent of the axis about which it is bent. These shafts were as good as steel shafts with regard to the consistency of bending and twisting properties, so none of them needed to be “pured.”
Today, however, graphite shafts are flag wrapped (a much less expensive process than filament winding), which means that sheets of graphite fibers, oriented in a specific direction, are rolled onto a mandrel. If just a few layers are used to make up the shaft wall thickness, then there is a good chance that an overlap will cause a thick section, or a high concentration of fibers up the side of the shaft which will create something like a spine. This would cause the shaft to bend differently in different bending modes. For example; an R-shaft bending about one axis may become an S-flex when the shaft is rotated 90-degrees and bent again under the same load. This is not good.
Some of the more popular shafts (Aldila NV for instance, and others) have many layers, and this reduces the potential inconsistency problems. Other shafts that are not as well produced may need to be oriented to a specific position to reduce the effects of their inconsistent bending properties – the so-called “puring” process, which only underscores the fact that the shaft is impure to begin with.
If you were making a decision about what to put into your club, I’d suggest that you’re better off getting a shaft that does not require "puring" in the first place. A better quality shaft may give you more peace of mind but since you’ve already had your shaft "pured", and cannot detect any difference in performance then my advice is not to worry too much about it.
For more on shafts click here
Hope this helps.
Frank
My question relates to ball trajectory. I recently switched to a 10.5 degree TaylorMade R5 driver with an Aldila stiff mid-flex shaft with a firm tip. I hoped to find the promised land of increased distance. Now my ball trajectory has increased to high-mid to low-high. The ball carries in the neighborhood of 240 to 260 but has little roll.
To reduce spin off the driver and add some roll to my drives, would I be better off changing my driver’s current shaft to a high-flex stiff shaft to lower the trajectory, or go to a 9-degree loft with a regular mid/low flex point with mid-firm tip?
I am approximately 6 feet tall, have a swing speed of 90 to 100 mph with a smooth swing tempo and half to three-quarter backswing, and play to a single-digit handicap. I am 51 years and have been playing for 30 years.
Jack
Jack,
The first thing I would like to say is that 240 to 260 yards carry is very good for a 90 to 100 mph swing speed. This is something that most of us would envy. If you are not happy with the trajectory (i.e., it’s too high) and want more roll, then first try to tee the ball a little lower. This will increase the spin rate, which is not good, but will also decrease the launch angle. If the spin rate is not too high, then the trajectory will be lower and the angle of descent into the fairway will be less and you will get more roll. The carry distance will also be reduced somewhat, but this is to be expected. The next thing to try is the 9-degree loft if you’re happy with the shaft you presently have. A stiffer shaft will lower the trajectory a little, but I doubt the difference will be worth losing the good feel you have with your current shaft.The average roll on reasonably firm, flat fairways is about 25 yards, so if you’re playing on soft fairways you shouldn’t change a thing; you truly are doing about as well as you can given your club head speed.
Good luck and keep it flying.
Frank
Hi Frank:
If I have my driver's shaft tip trimmed (adjusted) does that break the USGA rule regarding the adjustability of clubs? Why is this rule there? Thanks in advance for your reply.
Greg
Greg,
Tipping the shaft (cutting to length from the tip end) is part of the manufacturing process whether it is done in the factory, by you or by a custom club maker. Once assembled and fixed it is no longer considered ‘adjustable’ and would not violate the Rules of Golf.What you do to the club between rounds, is of no concern to the rules makers as long as the reworked club conforms to the rules in its modified state.
The adjustability clause in the rules was included to prevent golfers from making adjustments during a round. If you had an adjustable club you would have an advantage over your fellow competitors and in fact it would be equivalent to carrying a few extra clubs. I am not sure that this really helps but to some it could be quite an advantage in certain unusual circumstances.
I hope this will make an adjustment to your understanding of the rule.
Frank
After reading your September 26, 2006 feature on finding the proper shaft, I’m still a little confused. I’m looking at the Titleist 905R driver, which has four standard shafts offered, Aldila NV 65, Speeder by Fujikura, UST Proforce V2 75 and Graphite Design YS-6+. You stated in the feature that 90% of all golfers, which would include me, would be okay with the standard shafts offered by the manufacturer. Being a 12 handicap and currently using a R-flex shaft in the 50-60 grams level on my current Titleist 585D, I am looking for a higher launch with low spin. Some of the standard shafts above mention high or medium spin. Should I then rule out those standard shaft options?
Can I get a very lightweight shaft that can indeed help me with the higher launch and low spin? Should I get a higher loft, say 12 degrees rather than the 10.5 that I currently have? At 56 years old, I’m not only looking for more distance, but more carry and accuracy. I know how important finding the right shaft is and I’m sure that others have the same questions.
Jim Fujioka, HIJim,
First you are right about the four different shafts offered as available “stock” shafts. Some of these are better suited to the better golfer and are not what I would call a “standard shaft”, so let me try to guide you through this maze of shaft options if I can.The weight of the shaft will not affect the launch angle but the shaft flex and face loft will. There are high and low kick points in a shaft which will also affect ball flight and spin. The low kick point (same flex shaft) on an otherwise similar lofted head will tend to increase the launch angle and increase the spin. The high kick point will generally do the opposite i.e. lower the flight and decrease the spin. These are relatively small increments compared to the effect of changing the overall shaft flex and club loft.
So if you need to change your ball trajectory and you are not a low single digit handicap golfer, and hitting the ball consistently, the first suggestion is to work with club loft. The higher loft will launch the ball higher and add more spin.
Next, and seeing you are a Titleist man, I would suggest you skip the four “stock” shaft options and go for the “standard” Titleist 4560 which is very good for 90% of us. Look at the different flexes of the standard Titleist 4560 shafts offered. Most important is to select a flex X, S, R, or other, which will best suit your swing speed and swing type. For example; if your swing speed is about 85 – 90 then an R- flex should be your first choice. But it must also feel comfortable for you and only you can make this determination.
If these options don’t seem to do the trick then, and only then, start a search for a specialized shaft. You may also want to try a different ball type, which has different launch conditions and acts in concert with the club head type.
Titleist offers 54 different shafts so the “Techies” can do their thing.
The reason why so many shafts are being offered is to allow a golfer who loves to tinker or believes that, “a different shaft will work wonders” or that “If the pros are using them then they must work for me” to have fun doing his thing. If, however, you have a swing like the pros then you can work with the fine-tuning that some of the exotic shafts may have to offer.
For most of us, messing with these (sometimes very expensive) shafts may make us feel good but might not have any real effect on our game.
The only golfers who are in a position to really take advantage of the various options are the very good single digit handicap golfers or those who hit the ball very consistently and need to tweak their trajectory. These golfers hit the ball regularly on the sweet spot and are looking for a ball flight, which the combination of club loft, c.g. location and overall shaft flex will not provide.
So Jim, I recommend that you select a head design that looks good to you with the appropriate loft followed by the correct shaft flex X,S, or R standard shaft (in the case of Titleist the 4560 is very good).
As a last resort only, go to a shaft with a different flex point, weight and torsional properties. When you get to this point you had better be hitting the ball consistently otherwise the journey to fine tuning the club would have been a waste of time.
This doesn’t mean that the final product you come up with, working all the variables, will not perform as well as a standard shaft but it does mean that the odds that it will be better than a standard shaft of the correct flex are slim and also you will spend a lot of time and money getting there.
Specialized customizing has done wonders for a number of people who have gone through the process and therefore believe that they have the perfect fit. Knowing that our equipment is right for us and having this belief is very important and does wonders for our game.
Frank, you're the best. I've developed a fade that’s driving me crazy. I just hate that ball flight. Is my shaft too stiff or vice versa. I hit the same shot with several different drivers, all stiff, 8.5 to 9.5 loft. I just can’t figure it out. Thanks.
Henry CarnesHenry,
The slice can be due to a couple of things. Yes, one reason could be the stiff shaft but generally this would result in more of a push fade than a bad slice. Second and most probably the cause is in your swing. I would get a good teacher to look at your swing and correct the error if this is the cause, which should be reasonably evident.A more flexible shaft will tend to hit the ball a little higher and farther left than a stiff shaft which will tend to hit the ball a little lower and right. A bad slice is almost always a swing that has gone wrong so find a good teacher to look at what you are doing and make the corrections if this is the problem. It will generally be a lot less expensive than messing with equipment to correct the flaw.
I’m 34 years old, a 4 handicap and have been playing since age 7 but I do not know my swing speed, ball speed or launch angle. I use a ping si3 10-degree driver with a Grafalloy Blue regular flex shaft. I’m considered a pretty long hitter at my club although I don't know my average off the top of my head. I would guesstimate maybe 240 or so carry but most of your articles state that this figure is over-estimated by most folks. To get to my question; this driver just felt right the first time I hit it although I haven't hit a regular flex shaft since I was about 15 years old. It doesn't really matter as long as the shaft works for me not to mention I have "sold" more than one person on this shaft (one interestingly enough had a stiff flex of the same model) but I'm curious as to your thoughts on why I would be happy with all of the rest of my set in basically a stiff flex while I have fairly good results with this driver in a regular flex shaft from an accuracy and distance standpoint. Not looking to make any changes at the moment but rather for some insight as to what I might be looking for in my next technology upgrade i.e. looking at regular flex driver shafts. Thanks very much for any input.
Well done, you have found the shaft, which matches your swing. This is not all that you have found, as the shaft is only one piece of the system. The head and loft seems to be made for you based on the results. There is no need to go to a different flex for your irons if you are comfortable with what you have. As you know, I have continually suggested that golfers go to the regular flex shaft, as this will most likely be the best match to allow them to maintain a good swing tempo and as a result get more distance and control. Only if your swing speed is in the 95 mph + range should you think about experimenting with a stiff shaft. I hope this helps.I have a question for you. I have recently purchased a NIKE SasQuatch driver, 10.5 loft with graphite, medium flex shaft.
I’ve been using P.G.F. Tri Axiom clubs that have most of the weight distributed at the bottom of the club. This new club is of course weighted differently and I am inclined to slice all the drives. I want to add weight to the heel of the club to hopefully straighten the drives. Would you tell me; the amount of weight I should experiment with first off and also where I should position the weight (I Intend to put strips of weight similar to adding weight to a tennis racquet.)
If you are slicing (not fading) all your drives then shifting weight to the heel may not correct this. Let me go through what adding weight will do.
If you add weight to the heel section near the shaft this will do a number of things; first it will increase the head weight which will increase the swing weight and the shaft will feel softer and generally this will make the club face close a little and correct a slight fade; second the center of gravity (c.g.) will move back toward the heel and if (only if) you consistently hit the ball in the center of the face will you be able to take advantage of the gear effect which will tend to put a little more draw spin on the ball. Hitting the ball a little toward the toe will also do this without adding weight to the heel.
A stiffer shaft may be the cause of your slice along with the other tweaks I have discussed but a stronger grip and a lesson may do more good than trying to do this by club weight adjustment. To save time try the lesson first. I hope this helps.
Frank
I have an average swing speed of 85-90mph with a driver. I am a 12 handicap. I probably drive the ball around 200 yards.
I have stiff shafts in all of my clubs. It may be an ego thing that I just like the idea of having stiff shafts.
Do you think I am loosing distance and/or accuracy by having stiff shafts rather than regular?
Your insight regarding club and ball technology is the most interesting to see on T.V. and read on the web. Your information is a real help to many golfers.Thanks, Frank.
Jeffrey W. Harris,
Jeffrey,
Thanks for the kind words.
Yes I do think that you are loosing both accuracy and distance by sticking to a stiff shaft which satisfies your ego but not conducive to a good consistent swing. If the shaft is too stiff for your swing speed then you will find that the good shots are normally associated with a really hard swing. The rest of the time, and certainly when you get tired you will be fighting your clubs to get them to perform. This creates tension and an inconsistent badly timed swing. Timing is more important to consistency and distance than almost anything else. So if you want to improve both accuracy and distance use the correct shaft flex which in your case is probably a regular flex. Try this out and put your ego back in the bag. Real men do use Regular flex shafts and find that their scores improve along with it.Frank,
Your advice re shorter drivers is great and should be of prime interest to those who believe that longer shafts beget longer drives. In our group I have the shortest driver (43.5) and out-drive all but one guy and my drives are on the fairways.
My question is, do you think that Michelle Wie’s wayward drives are because of the length of her driver. Also Tiger Woods seems to hit more drives that go awry than in his earlier days as a pro, when he was using a 43.5 inch driver.Always enjoy reading your column and your answers on TV.
Wilfred Ogawa
Kaneohe, HIWilfred,
I believe that Michele Wie’s driver is 46 inches, which if this is the case makes it more difficult to control. I believe that Tiger was accurate and still very long early in his career with his 43.5 inch steel shafted driver. If you can have more confidence in your swing by using a shorter shafted driver, you will swing better, have improved timing and gain all the distance you would achieve by using a longer shaft, which may not be so accurate. Well done to you but don’t let anybody know your secret.
OK, I love the ads with Vijay Singh hitting that new HiBore driver. Sometimes we get to try that new club at a demo day or we're maybe lucky enough to have demo drivers and irons at our club. But when it comes time
to order that new wonderful driver, fairway wood or hybrid, I'm lost when it
comes to ordering a shaft to match my game. And let's be honest, most of us 15-handicappers don't know how to judge what the best shaft is. Kick points, flex, and all the rest are beyond us. When I looked at all the possible shafts offered by Cleveland when ordering a HiBore I became confused. We all want to hit the ball 300 yards, but at 62 I'm more interested in hitting it onto the short grass. I think the proper shaft will help me do that.
Can you shed some light on what to look for in ordering the proper shaft?James Houle
Jim,
I agree that with so many shafts available, most golfers can barely figure out what the differences are, never mind figuring out how to make a decision about them. I think that for the Cleveland Launcher Ti460 driver there are about 17 different types of shafts. Let's be Frank about this: The standard shaft works beautifully for 90% of all golfers, and Cleveland wouldn't offer it if they didn't believe it provides outstanding performance. The other options are for those relatively few golfers who know exactly what they want. The standard shaft is great and I recommend you go for it, and get the R-flex rather the Stiff unless you have a fast swing speed.When you get your handicap down to scratch or better and would like to tweak your flight trajectory, that's the time to start getting fancy with different weights, torques, "kick points," etc. It's not that those other shafts aren't good, but it's like choosing between a Honda Accord and a Maserati: unless you're so highly skilled that you're looking for super-high performance, something simple and standard will get you where you want to go just fine. We've had 400 years for golfers to find out what flex and shaft bend pattern is good. Messing with this is not going to help unless we know exactly where on the face we hit the ball time after time after time, and precisely how we would like to work the ball.
Hope this helps
Hi Frank,
I'm having a problem getting around on my new TaylorMade R7 425 driver, and I don't have this problem with other clubs. Sometimes I hit a hybrid off the tee and can get up to 200 yards using that club, but when I put the driver in my hands it feels uncomfortable. Would it be OK to cut it down to 44 inches, or would that change the performance of the club?
Thanks,
Tom
Tom,
I hope I understand what you mean by “having a problem getting around.” I assume this means bringing the club from the top of the backswing to impact, rather than closing the face at impact.
If it is the former, then you can test the feel of a shorter club by choking down on the driver grip by about 1 inch or more and hitting a number of balls on the driving range. The grip in this lower gripping position will be a little smaller, but you’ll get a general feeling of how the shorter club will work.
If you’re talking about having a problem closing the face into impact, then I recommend you try moving as much weight as possible to the heel weight ports by inserting the heavier weight plugs. This is an advantage of this type of club design.
If my first assumption is correct and you like what you feel, then cut the inch off the club and go for it. If that doesn’t solve the problem, you can try adding the heel weights next. Good luck.
I have a 10.5 deg, R-7 Quad with a regular flex shaft… my question: is there a downside to trim the butt end an inch to get to the 44”? Will I notice any difference in feel.... will that change the swing weight, or flex? If weight needs to be made up in the head, there are different cartridges that I can use. Or if weight should be decrease, that can be done. Any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated.
If you cut an inch off the driver shaft from the butt end the swing weight will go down by about six points and the shaft will feel a little stiffer. To find out what this would feel like choke up on the shaft of your driver by about an inch and hit a few shots on the range. The grip may be a little smaller by gripping down as suggested but not enough to get the general idea of what you are up against. To compensate for the shaft length decrease if you cut it down, you can put some lead tape on the back center section of the head to bring the weight up a little. You many not have to bring it all the way back to the original swing weight but this you will figure out as you go along.
The advantage of the shorter shaft is that you will gain control and this leads to more confidence with you driver and in turn you may swing better and regain the distance you lose because of the shorter shaft.
I searched your web site but didn’t see much mention of shaft torque.
I plan to build a new driver with parts from Golfsmith and for each graphite shaft they have a torque measurement. The higher the price the lower the torque number and for the ultra light shafts the torque number starts to rise again. My driver swing speed is about 100mph, what torque number is too high, which might start contributing to spraying the ball?Thanks for your web site, lots of great information.
A: A torque of about 3 or 4 degrees is fine for almost every one. This “Low torque” is being used to sell expensive shafts when few of us can tell the difference. Obviously, if a shaft twists under the test loads at ten degrees then this is far too flexible in the torsion mode especially with the big head we have today. This is, however, close to the “Torque” in the shaft Bobby Jones used in 1930 when he won the Grand Slam. Not bad was it?
I am wondering if you have had any feedback about driver shafts and how long they generally last? Throughout the vast golf sites and forums I have come across this question but the answers given leave a lot to be desired about the topic!
1. Have you witnessed or tested shafts for break down and is it possible for a shaft to lose performance after a period of general play?
2. Can hot and cold weather factor into a shafts breakdown process if it occurs at all?
3. Can this be true or it this merely theory?
4. How often do professional players change out shafts of the same make?
If true, how can we categorize shaft replacement and put into a chart for the public as a measure of "Good practice" for Senior, moderate, average, above average, or extreme swing speeds? We may discover that it may be more important than we think to the serious players or those trying to improve.
I look forward to your expert opinion.
Shafts don't wear out from a performance point of view but they do get damaged now and again. Sometimes graphite shafts have worn badly on the edge of a bag not designed to carry graphite shaft so if this happens then the shaft must be replaced. Otherwise don't worry about shaft performance decay.
I have been a reader of your columns and newsletters for a long time, and you have answered countless questions. If I may, I would like to ask you one personally. I have a Titleist 905T Driver, 9.5 degrees, Aldila NV65 Shaft (stiff). The driver is currently 45 inches long. If I cut a 1/2 to 1 inch off the butt end, what will happen to the shaft flex, swing weight, distance, (amount lost) and overall performance of the club. I grew up in the 80's when 43 1/2 inches was standard. I realize the longer the club the more distance, but I would sacrifice distance for accuracy. Thank you very much.
Yours truly,
Jeffrey
Jeffrey,
When you decrease the length by one inch you will decrease the swing weight by six points. The shaft will feel a little stiffer and your distance should decrease by about 5 yards or so. This assumes you swing with the same force. The advantages of having a shorter shaft will be that you will gain more accuracy and probably not lose as much distance on average because your added confidence will allow you to swing better and the ball landing in the fairway will add some distance. The firmer shaft will not affect your swing measurably but I suggest you add a little lead tape to the back center part of the head if the driver feels uncomfortable and you are fighting the club. Try choking down on the club by an inch and see how it feels. This will give you an indication of what to expect if all you do is trim it by an inch.
I know the current trend in drivers is large volume (460cc) and maximum COR but I've always liked the feel and performance of smaller steel heads with zero COR. Because of this I did a small, unscientific "test". I put my driver - a 230 cc all steel head on a high quality graphite shaft - and a name brand 460cc titanium driver with factory shaft in the hands of some very good golfers to see if there was a difference in performance. Unbelievably all the test golfers (low handicappers to scratch golfers) hit the 230cc steel headed driver farther than the 460cc titanium driver. Most of them out hit even their own drivers with the little one. This being the case, why is the industry pushing the big/high COR drivers and pretty much not even manufacturing smaller steel drivers?
Thank you,
Dan
Dan, I don't know exactly how your experiment was conducted and what conditions were controlled but I can say that the bigger (460 cc) drivers (when hit on the sweet spot) will not do anything more for you than the smaller 350 cc or 400 cc drivers on condition that the COR is the same and the launch angle & spin rate is close to optimum. The larger head are designed to be more forgiving for those who don't hit the sweet spot every time. Those who can do this don't need the bigger head but it wont hurt them to use it. The higher COR on the other hand will definitely give you more ball speed by approximately 5 mph... again, if you hit the sweet spot
My swing speed is right around 90 mph, my back swing is slow and deliberate, but on my downswing I try to rip the balls head off. My drives seem to go rather short and definitely fade; my average drive is around 200 yards with carry and roll. Should I be hitting it around 220 carry and around 230 with any kind of roll? So my question is would I be better off with a senior flex shaft?
Thanks, Rick
Rick,
I think a regular shaft flex is fine and you should be driving the ball farther than 200 yards with a head speed of 90 mph. To correct the fade you may need a slight swing correction. But the distance problem is probably due to incorrect launch conditions. Your ball speed should be close to 130 mph with a launch angle of about 13 to 14 degrees and a spin rate of about 3,000 rpm. If you don't have these launch conditions then see what a different head design would do for you. Trying an 11 or 12-degree loft would be a good place to start.
I use the Cobra 460 Titanium and love it. I do push or slice due to either not shifting my weight or sliding my hips to the left rather than being in synchronization with my arms and squaring at impact. Do you think this new Cobra has merit and can help me square better at impact?
Thanks, KurtKurt,
No club will make you swing better. The fact that you are pushing the ball or slicing it a little may be due to a swing flaw or that the shaft is too stiff.You probably need to get someone with the right qualifications to look at your swing. The large head is sometimes a little harder to get around than the smaller one used to be and will result in the face remaining open at impact. This will result in a slice, which may even start to the right and go further right.
Frank,
When buying a shaft for my driver the manufacturer talks about torque. Does the higher the torque mean the more the shaft will bend when I swing it. I am a senior and have a swing speed of 78 mph and would like to get the best bang for my bucks. If you could help me out on this I would appreciate it.
Thanks, DaveDave,
The “torque” people refer to, is the resistance to twisting. A “low torque” shaft means that it will not twist easily. Most shafts today have been built with sufficient torque so you don't have to worry about this property. You will probably need a low torque shaft only if you swing speed gets up to (or above) 110 mph. The flex in the shaft is a measure of the longitudinal bending and this is very important to get right. At your swing speed you need an “A” flex shaft or if you think you want something stiffer then try the “R” flex. Just keep in mind that you need to ‘feel where the head is' at all times if you want to get the best bang for your buck.
I have a Taylor Made Bubble Shaft 45", 10.5* driver that I hit somewhere in the 200-210 yards (carry) range at the practice range with practice range balls (one-piece surlyn). I believe that I would be more accurate and consistent with a shorter driver while still maintaining the distance I get now. Perhaps even adding distance eventually. I plan on shortening my driver down to 41-42" by changing the shaft (bubble shaft isn't too good for that).
You see, I don't believe that a longer driver combined with a larger club head is the answer for everything. I've asked those questions to many people but the answers always sound fishy to me considering the evidence I'm presented with. Many players I played with don't do much better than I do and they often do worse, even though they have much better equipment, are taller and seem to have adequate ability. Manufacturers have been contradicting themselves with: "Shorter clubs are easier to hit" when selling hybrids which have tiny heads and "Get a longer driver with a bigger head, you'll hit farther and straighter" when selling drivers. Thanks for reading.
MartinMartin,
There is no question that a shorter driver will give you more control, build confidence and eventually increase you average driving distance. Going from 45” to 41” is quite a change… I would suggest that you step it down from 45” to 43” to begin with. You must try to keep the swing weight about the same though; this will require you to add some weight to the head. The shorter driver will potentially decrease your club head speed, but not too much. You may lose about 5 yards on a perfect shot but these shots are few and far between with the longer driver. You are right that a better swing will probably give you ten or more yards… so if the shorter shaft allows you to make a better swing then you are better off using it. I don't think that 300 yards is in the offing as this requires swing speeds of about 125 mph and there are few of us that can reach these speeds. There is no harm in thinking 300 but you will probably score better staying with 220 to 240 yards as a goal.
Hello Frank,
I have heard there is a high degree of variability in graphite shaft manufacturing and that I should not buy a driver unless I have had it frequency tested for my swing speed. Is this true? Do you expect this problem be solved in the near future? My swing speed is about 93-94 mph. What is the ideal frequency for me?
Thanks,
ChrisChris,
I would not worry too much about the quality of graphite shafts as long as they're from a major, well-known company. As far as the frequency is concerned I think the best solution is to measure the frequency of a club you like and match that one. At your swing speed I would suggest that you choose a 44inch regular or stiff shaft with a swing weight of about D2. This is a good starting point if you don't have an existing club that you like and can measure. Frequency takes into account the length, weight and stiffness. But the specs I gave you should work well.
I am wondering if you have had any feedback about driver shafts and how long they generally last? Throughout the vast golf sites and forums I have come across this question but the answers given leave a lot to be desired about the topic! I look forward to your expert opinion. Aaron.
Aaron,
Shafts don’t wear out from a performance point of view but they do get damaged now and again. Sometimes graphite shafts have worn badly on the edge of a bag not designed to carry graphite shaft so if this happens then the shaft must be replaced. Otherwise don’t worry about shaft performance decay.
How do manufacturers make a driver's face two degrees closed? Is the shape of the head different than a square face, or do they adjust the alignment aid and grip? Can you make a two-degree closed driver perform exactly like a square face just by opening the face at address? Chris
Chris,
Manufacturers bore the hosel (or cast the head with the hosel) at an angle as if at address the shaft is in the forward press position. Thus when you address the ball normally with the shaft straight in front of you the face will be closed. If you close the face of a straightaway club the loft angle will be reduced but this sometimes helps if at impact the face seems to be open all the time. To do this it may only be a grip position change to a stronger grip. However, the ball flight will be lower because of the reduced loft. I am not one to advocate a closed face (three degrees or more) to prevent a slice because this locks you into a bad swing.
I have heard there is a high degree of variability in graphite shaft manufacturing and that I should not buy a driver unless I have had it frequency tested for my swing speed. Is this true? My swing speed is about 93-94 mph. What is the ideal frequency for me?Chris
Chris
I would not worry too much about the quality of graphite shafts as long as they’re from a major, well-known company. The only way to determine if you have a good quality shaft or not is placing it on a flex board and making sure that it bends the same amount irrespective of how you rotate it about its own axis. If the shaft is not relatively consistent then the frequency will also change as you rotate it around its own axis. The bottom line is choose a shaft which bends the same way and with the appropriate stiffness to give you the frequency you prefer.
As far as the frequency is concerned, I think the best solution is to measure the frequency of a club you like and match that one. At your swing speed I would suggest that you choose a 44-inch regular or stiff shaft with a swing weight of about D2. This is a good starting point if you don’t have an existing club that you like and can measure. Frequency takes into account the length, weight and stiffness. But the specs I gave you should work well.
Can I use a steel shaft rather than graphite with a new oversized driver head? Darren A.
You can certainly use steel in your driver, even if it is a big head. The swingweight will increase several points and the overall weight will also increase by an ounce or two. It is more important to feel comfortable with the shaft and its flex properties than trying to chase distance. Tiger had steel in his driver for a long time and only recently changed.
May 30, 2002
I play to a three handicap and used to have a Mizuno T-Zoid 10-degree driver with the Proforce Gold shaft. The Flex was R. My percentage fairways hit was 52-percent. After watching some of my hero's on TV, I switched to the TaylorMade 200 Steel driver with a R80 rifle shaft. Suddenly, my accuracy increased to 85-percent. My problem though is that I've lost about 20 yards on average. Is there a graphite shaft that will give me the same accuracy but with increased distance and controllability? -- CassieCassie,
You want it all don’t you? I think that you will find changing from 52 to 85-percent in your accuracy will improve your score much more than the twenty yards on you drive. The "Big Bomb" is good for your ego but not for the scorecard. A more lofted club may probably help get some of the distance back. Good luck and keep trying.I am 16 years old and have a new driver. The only problem is I hit it very high. I had it extended because it only had a 40" shaft on it when I bought it. Could having it extended mess with the flex and cause me to hit the ball high? (It also has a high kick point.) Or do I just need a new shaft -- Daniel Pecotte
Daniel,
I don't know what loft angle you have on the clubhead, but I would first recommend that you change to a new stiff shaft so the club length is 43-44". If this does not work, then you may have to get a new driver with less loft. Good luck and let me know things work out.I built my own driver around a 45-inch big butt shaft and a lightweight wrap grip. The head is 350 cubic centimeters and the club swings with a swing weight of E-1 -- yet weighs only 9½ ounces. Because of the heavy swing weight I can feel the head throughout the swing, yet still swing it fast because of it's light overall weight. What I can't understand is why the pros and amateurs alike backed away from this spec. Big Butt shafts have practically disappeared, but their advantage of being so lightweight seems obvious. Why has this club not taken hold? -- Robert Reznikoff
Robert,
The reason for the swing weight being E1 is that the club is 45 inches long and you have an extremely lightweight grip and an average weight head. The pros have zeroed in on an average of 44½ inches for their driver and will change their specs to get the feel their looking for. If you like what you have though, by all means enjoy it and keep it a secret.
As a lefty it is tough to find an abundance of drivers to hit. I currently shoot in the high 70s-low 80s, but can barely hit my Mizuno T-Zoid driver, which has a stock Mizuno stiff shaft in it. I can hit all of my other clubs well, including my Cleveland Quadpro 3-wood with a Dynamic Gold s-300 shaft. But every time I step up to the tee with my driver I swing way too hard. My pro says the club is too light, which gives me bad tempo. I believe this to be true because I swing with good tempo on all my other clubs. Do you think I should put a heavier shaft in my driver, or just trade it in? -- Geoff Lewis, Rancho Santa Margarita, Calif.
My best suggestion is that you go to a demo day and find the driver you like best. What you're thinking about is what a lot of people tend to do, and that's take an individual property of the club when in fact the whole system needs to be changed. Instead of messing with what you have, changing shafts and so on, you can try a whole series of drivers to find the one that suits you best.
I am 41 years old, 6-foot-2 and 230 pounds. I am a 6 handicap with a driver swing speed of over 110 mph. My question is this: is graphite longer than steel and if so on average how much longer? I currently play with a Titleist 975J with a UST 65 stiff shaft. -- David Smith, Oklahoma City, Okla.
David,
All else being equal, graphite is longer than steel. But make sure that you get a good, quality graphite shaft. The reason for this is that there is less mass in the shaft and thus the club will have a lower moment of inertia about the swing axis which is close to, but above the butt end of the grip, just before and through the impact zone. This difference will allow for an increase in club head speed of several feet per second. If you are comfortable with what you have though, don’t change. Looking for a few extra yards is not worth the potential discomfort. The grass is not always greener.
Once a single-digit handicap, at age 65 my handicap now is probably about 12-15. I play with stiff shafted clubs, one set of cavity back irons and another set of older muscle back irons. My driver is a Callaway War Bird, 3-wood with 13 degrees of loft and a stiff shaft. I use a Cobra Baffler "plywood persimmion" for my 5- and 7-woods and these have stiff TT Rocket shafts. If my clubhead speed is 85 mph with a regular shaft and the same speed with a stiff shaft, does the softer shaft produce more distance, assuming clubhead weight or mass is the same? -- Dean J. Johnson, Roseville, Minn.
Dean, if the clubhead speed is 85 mph in both cases, it doesn’t matter what shaft you have in the club. The distance is going to be the same. This assumes that the clubhead direction and dynamic loft are the same in each case. The initial launch conditions of the ball will dictate the distance it will travel. Once contact between the ball and the clubhead has started it will last for approximately 450 millionths of a second before the two separate. During this time it is the weight and weight distribution, speed, direction and location of the impact point between on the clubface itself which dictates what is going to happen to the bal. And the shaft may as well be separated from the head as much as it plays a part in influencing the launch conditions of the ball. At 65 I would suggest that you go to a more flexible shaft and use the cavity back more than the muscle backs unless you are hitting the ball really well with them.
I'm ready to buy a new set of woods, but I need some help on picking the right shafts. I currently use a TaylorMade Bubble Burner (TS-100) and it works well but it's six years old and I'm ready for new technology. My swing speed is over 100 mph, and I like to draw the ball. My mistakes are usually a block right, or snap hook left. I've never bought a club without the manufacturer's shaft, so I don't know anything about other shaft makers. How does shaft weight factor in to my decision? -- Craig Gill, Los Angeles
If you have graphite in your woods now and you are happy with them then stay with graphite. The shaft weight of graphite is about half that of an equivalent flex in steel. This does make a difference and graphite will allow you to swing easier for the same club head speed. This assumes that you have a consistent swing. I do think that the new technology in clubs is good so get out and try some of the better known new drivers but don't expect miracles, especially if you are happy with the set you now have. Don't buy on impulse. The odds are against you that you will be happier with what you get than what you have. Make sure that you give the new club or a similar demo a good tryout first.
I am 5-foot-2 and was wondering what would be the proper length for my driver? Right now I have the Taylor Made 320 series and the standard length is 45 inches. I feel as if I have no control of the clubface. Also, the toe sticks up a lot. Any feedback would much appreciated. Thank you. -- Zachary
The standard length for a driver was 43 inches 50 years ago, when people were not much taller than they are today. Gary Player used to use a 44-inch driver in his prime. Tiger uses a shorter driver than the average, which is now about 44.5 inches on the PGA Tour. I am 6-foot-3 in my golf shoes and prefer a 44-inch driver for control and comfort. My recommendation to you is to choke up about 2 inches on your driver, hit a few shots and see how your performance changes. I predict it will feel more comfortable and you will gain the control you need and maybe even a little increase in your average distance. If this is the case, get your driver shortened 1.5 to 2 inches and watch your handicap go down a stroke or two. Before the official handicap catches up with your improved performance, you may even make a few bucks.
I am 14 years old and I'm about 5-foot-6 and 145 pounds. My handicap is 5.5. I have been using a 10.5 degree driver with a regular shaft. I swing fairly easy at the ball. Do you think that it would be smart for me to think about changing to a stiff shaft or a shaft with a stiff tip to get a little lower trajectory? -- Joe Venturini, Indianapolis, Indiana
Joe,
The only reason for you to change is if you are really unhappy with the trajectory. Why don't you try a 9-degree loft before you spend the money on reshafting the club you now have? Reshafting is going to make it feel different and this may not be good. Don't let the medicine create more of a problem than the disease.
I have just purchased a new Callaway set X-14 with the Big Bertha driver. I notice that with the Big Bertha I get long drives of 250-plus yards, albeit in the wrong direction! They always go right and onto the other fairway. I tried correcting my stance to face somewhat more left than usual but the problem still remains. If anything, I am sometimes unable to connect with this new stance. Any recommendations? -- Rajeev Sawhney
Rajeev,
You really don't want to screw up your swing for one club. The driver is a good product but the shaft is most likely the problem. Get the pro to check the flex or frequency and compare this with a driver (if the pro has one you can borrow) you like. You may need a more flexible shaft. Good luck.
I was commenting to a friend that the graphite shaft in my driver had too much flex and torque and he said I should spray it with clear laquer to stiffen it up. This sounded odd to me but he insisted thatit would work. I'd like to have your opinion before trying this. -- Steve Ball, Des Moines, Iowa (spb4320@home.com)
Steve,
If you coat the shaft with a one-inch thick layer of mud it will make it stiffer, but the first time you bend it the mud will crack and all you will have is a botched mess on your hands. The lacquer needs to be stiffer and stronger than the outside layers of the shaft material itself for it to have the effect of stiffening and improving the torsional properties. Don't do it.
LAUNCH
Hi, Frank:
I need help! My swing speed is around 125 mph with the driver (460 Adams xstiff), yet I have never hit a drive over 310 yards. Most of the time when I hit it good off the tee I’m around 285 (bone-straight 12-degree launch). How is this possible? I play about 150 rounds a year, so I know I’m not missing the sweet spot every single time.
I read somewhere that you should get 3 yards for every mph your club head is traveling. If this is true, what is stopping my drive from traveling 350?
Thanks for any info, Frank. Hope all is well.
Billy
Michigan
Billy,
First of all there are a lot of us (millions, including a few pros on tour) who would love to be in your shoes with most of your drives going 285 yards bone-straight!
With 125 mph head speed and impacting the sweet spot every time, you should be able to drive the ball about 330 yards now and again under ideal launch conditions. These are 12 degrees launch angle and about 2,200 rpm spin rate and a fairway in average conditions (i.e. ≈ 25 yard roll). If you are not at these launch conditions, then try to get there by hitting the ball a little higher on the face. This will reduce the ball speed a little but bring you closer to the optimum angle and spin. The other thing to try is a different ball. For more on optimum launch conditions please visit http://www.franklygolf.com/tgc/launch.asp
If I were you, I would settle for the drives you have and concentrate on the rest of your game, as there is nothing wrong with what you’re getting from your driver, especially since you’re hitting it both long and straight. Then the next step is to apply for your PGA Tour card if you don’t already have it.
Frank
Frank, with all of the talk about driver launch angles and spin rates. What is the proper tee height to perform an ideal test. Most rubber tees are 2", 2 1/14", 3' etc. So is there an ideal tee height?
There is no single ideal tee height. The object of teeing the ball is to get it off the ground so you can hit it in the middle of the face of the club. If you strike the ball on the upswing then you might want to tee it up a little higher to accomplish this central impact. So starting with this in mind, let's see what else you can try to do using tee height as a variable.
In many cases with the second generation titanium drivers (two or three years old) it was to your advantage to hit the ball not only on the upstroke (very common for most people) but to hit the ball slightly above center of the face. This means above the designed sweet spot. What this will do is decrease the spin rate, taking advantage of the vertical gear effect, and also increase the launch angle. But because of the ‘less than perfect sweet spot' impact one will lose a little ball speed but the overall result will be better especially if you are trying to increase distance. The tee height, which allows you to hit the ball both on the upstroke and a little above center, is what you should look for.
I would not try to hit the ball above the center of the face until you can consistently hit the ball on a particular part -- preferably the center part-- of the face. This, many of us find is quite sufficient of a challenge.
If you could answer my question I would appreciate it very much.Has any testing been done using Iron Byron or a similar machine to determine which of today's drivers is the longest given that all conditions are the same? Anthony S.
Anthony,
Because there is a limit on the COR (coefficient of restitution) which is a measure of the efficiency of energy transfer from the head to the ball and because one can adjust each club to launch the ball with the optimum launch angle and spin rate for any particular ball, there is no one model driver in the top ten or more that is longer than another when hit with a mechanical golfer. There may be a combination of ball and club that is longer than another, but even this is minimal. What you should be looking for is what best suites your swing and head speed and launch conditions. A badly fitted driver (very bad) vs. a very well fitted driver for maximum distance can result in a difference in distance of twenty or more yards. It is not the driver however but the specs you choose which will best match you. Ninety percent of the drivers with standard specs are better than 90% of the golfers who try to use them.
I am curious if there are certain balls that would match better with my driver, or newer jumbo drivers, that would give me a better launch angle and spin combinations. My swing speed averages between 95-105 m.p.h. I play a Snake Eyes fire forged 9-degree driver (320cc) with a Penley Tour light stiff shaft. -- Kyle Tran, Irving, Texas
Don't expect that one specific ball will outdo all others if properly matched to your club. The optimum launch conditions (i.e. to get maximum distance) for most balls is about 13 degrees off the deck (horizontal) and spinning at about 1500 r.p.m. Clubs are now being designed with a lower center of gravity to help decrease the spin and increase the launch angle. Also most of the new multi-layered balls will launch higher with less spin. So all in all I suggest that you change to one of the multi-layered balls to optimize on your distance. A good stretching program, walking as much as you can, developing a good pre-shot routine and a lesson every now and then will help you infinitely more than trying to tweak your equipment. It is important, however, that when everything comes together with your mind and swing, you don't want a mismatched ball and club to rob you of that five extra yards. Happy hunting.
How do players like Tiger manage to get a 13-degree launch angle with a 6-degree driver, when as far as I can tell his clubshaft is pretty much vertical at impact? -- Bill McBride, Khandallah, New Zealand
Tiger's launch angle is closer to 12 degrees, but still higher than most tour pros. I don't believe that the dynamic loft angle on his club is 6 degrees at impact -- it's considerably greater. The shaft is flexed, and the clubhead direction is also above horizontal (he's hitting it on the upswing). All of this with a ball that comes off the face with less spin and a higher launch angle than the previously popular wound balls adds up to something close to the optimum launch angle for the ball he is using. What does that mean? Maximum distance. Bill, tee the ball high and hit it on the upstroke. To get the Tiger distance you need to generate a club-head speed of about 125 to 130 mph.
QUESTION.
I recently had a discussion about golf clubs with a local club builder. He is under the impression that the head of a driver makes little difference in how high a ball flies -- two driver heads of 9 degrees loft will produce the same ball height. The difference is in the shaft flex and flex point. If he is right, it would have a huge impact on golf merchandising. Everyone could use the same golf head. All we would need to do is very the shaft from player to player. Is he right? -- Greg Montalvo, Macomb, IL.
Greg,
This is not entirely true. The mass distribution in the head makes a lot of difference to club-head presentation and thus the ball flight. The shaft flex will add or take from this. If everything else was the same and the shaft was the only variable, then you would get different flights but not sufficient variation to substitute for different lofts.
Different swing paths and changes in the location of the weight in the head make a lot of difference as to the final launch conditions.
Frank.
TYPE
I use the Cobra 460 Titanium and love it. I do push or slice due to either not shifting my weight or sliding my hips to the left rather than being in sync with my arms and squaring at impact. Do you think this new Cobra has merit and can help me square better at impact?
No club will make you swing better. The fact that you are pushing the ball or slicing it a little may be due to a swing flaw or that the shaft is too stiff. You probably need to get someone with the right qualifications to look at your swing. The large head is sometimes a little harder to get around than the smaller one used to be and will result in the face remaining open at impact. This will result in a slice, which may even start to the right and go further right.
I was intrigued by your comments about the latest drivers, in particular the assertion that a head size of about 390cc was the best for accuracy/distance. Does this mean that we should be passing up the biggest head size of 460cc? I would appreciate your comments. Warren
Warren,
The bigger heads are more forgiving but I believe that a 400 cc is about as good as the 460 cc and few of us will be able to tell the difference. Marketing is driving this more than performance.
June 5, 2002
I have a forged titanium driver with a head size of about 275cc and I drive the ball about 230 yards off the tee on average. Now that clubmakers produce drivers with even larger heads, would I get more distance if I bought a new, larger head driver? Also, do you always get more distance with graphite shafts than steel shafts? -- Young-ki, PhiladelphiaYoung-ki,
Your 230 yards is not a bad distance to drive the ball if it's accurate. Most male golfers between the age of 25 and 60 overestimate the distance they drive the ball by as much as 40 yards. A bigger driver head will not necessarily give you greater distance though unless the clubhead has a higher Coefficient of restitution than the one you have. You might want to visit www.franklygolf.com to find an easy-to-understand explanation of the effect of a higher COR. Your club probably has a COR close to the limit, however, and therefore the potential increase in distance isn't much -- about two or three yards. As for graphite shafts, they will add distance (about five yards or so if fitted correctly) but you probably have graphite in your driver now right? Work at you game and stay flexible. This will help more than discarding your two-year-old driver.Have you ever tested a club made by Prince Golf called the TI 4000? It may be the most forgiving driver I have ever played. I have been to many demo days in my home state of New Jersey and I am convinced that this Prince driver promotes the most playability for the average to above-average golfer. I would be interested in hearing your review of the club. -- Hobie, New Jersey
Hobie,
I have not tested the TI 4000 for playability, but if it, as in your words "promotes the most playability for the average to above-average golfer" then what more do you need to know? Stay with it.
I have an AVDP XL by Goldwin that I got a year ago. Obviously Goldwin went out of business a number of years ago. I actually hit the club pretty well though. My question is whether or not the clubface is conforming or not? I thought I'd ask the guy who should know. -- King Simpkins, Syracuse, N.Y.
I assume you're talking about spring-like effect with regards to the clubface. If you can access the USGA web site you'll be able to find a complete list of clubs of that are nonconforming by USGA standards. To save you some trouble, I can tell you that the club you speak of is not on that list, so swing away.
I have been using standard clubs for all my life. My ball flight pattern is a fade and it was very easy for me to work the ball left to right, but not so easy from right to left. Recently I went through a static/dynamic custom fitting test which showed that according to my physical characteristics (6-foot-3) and swing, my clubs specs should vary significantly (½-inch length and 4 degrees upright). Since, I have changed my clubs and now I can easily work the ball both ways. The point made is even more critical with the driver (Callaway Hawk Eye titanium, 9-degree, firm flex). It is almost impossible for me to hit a draw, so I understand that a change of specs could also help. My questions is, are there custom fitted drivers and woods available on the marketplace? So far I only know Ping's doing that. Do you think that it would really make a difference, as with the irons? -- Antonio Mortera, Gijon, Spain
Before you change the lie angle to your driver, which will not make as big a difference to your ball flight as the lie angle on you irons, try to work with a slightly softer shaft. Also, you should find out where on the club face you are hitting the ball. There are a few products that are useful in doing this, such as a spray called "Onmark." I don't know how else to help. Glad to know that you got your irons working though.
I am looking to get a new driver. Is there a rule of thumb for deciding the loft I should use? I had a local pro measure my swing speed (about 105 m.p.h.) and he said I should use a stiff shaft, but couldn't tell me what loft I should get. -- Bill Riley, Ontario, Canada
Bill,
Don’t ever buy an expensive driver without first trying it or an equivalent demo. Every clubhead design is a little different and will not perform the same way as another, even with an identical shaft. Your swing speed is above average so a stiff shaft may work well. Generally, you could use a loft between 7 and 10 degrees, but don't get one without first trying an identical demo.
I have been using an 11-degree Mizuno T-Zoid Driver with a stock shaft for about six months before I decided to change to a 10.5 degree Titleist 975D with a stock shaft last month. My driver swing speed is around 65 from last check. I have the following questions to ask:
1.) I can feel that the Mizuno seems to hit the ball slightly farther but tends to slice more, why?
2.) Missed hits on Titleist are not noticeable on the hand compared with Mizuno, why?
3.) The ball flights are a bit too high causing loss in distance, any remedy?
4.) What should be the optimum distances achieved with both drivers? -- KwanThe answer to your questions are speculative as I have not seen you hit the ball with either of the drivers.
First a swing speed of 65 (if this is m.p.h.) is a below average swing speed and you need to get the ball up and with quite a bit of spin to get a reasonable distance.
Let me assume the swing speed you have given is wrong and it is about average and about 85 m.p.h. Now to answer your questions with this in mind; I can tell you that there is not an optimum distance for a driver but rather an optimum distance for a ball, given a certain swing speed. You should try to get the ball launched at about 13 to 15 degrees with a spin of about 2500 revs per minute with your assumed swing speed of 85 m.p.h.
The driver that has a stiffer shaft may be hitting the ball to the right but this may also be because the face is mounted slightly open. The fact that you can feel missed hits on one club more than the other may only be because one has a larger sweet spot than the other. In this case between the two clubs you describe I don't think that the difference is enough for you to feel this so I don't know why you are feeling the difference.
I suggest the you try out a few different shafts and see if this helps get you more comfortable.
Q.I am planning to experiment with lead tape on my Great Big Bertha driver and wonder where to place the tape -- on the top, ba